Electric Cooker & Induction Hob Installation
Connecting electric ovens, cookers and induction hobs to a supply that can handle them.
An electric cooker or induction hob draws far more current than anything plugged into a normal socket. That is why it lives on its own circuit, with its own switch. Fitting a new one is often simple. Sometimes, especially when switching from gas or from a modest ceramic hob to a powerful induction model, the existing supply isn't up to it. We check first so you aren't left with a hob that trips the board on Christmas morning.
Dedicated cooker circuits and isolators
A cooker circuit runs from the consumer unit to a cooker switch, a large double-pole isolator usually placed beside the cooking area, not directly behind the hob. From there a cable goes to a connection plate behind the appliance. The switch lets you isolate the cooker for cleaning or in an emergency without reaching over hot rings.
Checking cable size and protection
Induction hobs vary widely in rating, and a larger model can draw more than an older circuit was designed for. We look at the cable size, the protective device in the board, how the cable is installed and how long the run is. The manufacturer's installation instructions also matter, because some hobs and ovens specify how they must be connected. If the circuit isn't suitable, we can run a new one.
Ovens, range cookers and combinations
A single built-in oven may connect through a switched outlet, while a double oven or range cooker normally needs the dedicated circuit. An oven and hob can sometimes share a circuit if it is sized for both together. We follow the appliance instructions and the wiring regulations, BS 7671, in deciding.
Gas appliances
We are electricians, not gas engineers. Any gas hob, cooker or range must be connected by a Gas Safe registered engineer. We can supply the electrical feed a gas appliance needs for ignition, lights or a fan.
Moving from gas to induction
If the kitchen has only ever had gas, there may be no cooker circuit at all. That means a new circuit from the consumer unit, which needs a spare way and suitable protection. If space is short, a consumer unit upgrade might come first. In a full refit, plan this with the rest of the kitchen electrics.
What to have ready
Signs an existing cooker circuit needs attention
Some warning signs suggest the existing supply needs looking at before a new appliance goes on. A cooker switch that feels warm, shows discolouring around the switch plate or has a neon indicator that flickers should be checked. So should a circuit that trips when several rings and the oven are used together, or an old switch with a socket built into it that has been used for a kettle. In older kitchens the cooker cable may be undersized for modern appliances or protected by an old rewireable fuse. We test the circuit as part of the job and tell you what we find.
Positioning also matters. The cooker switch should be within easy reach but not directly above the hob, where you would have to lean over hot pans to use it. Connection plates sit low behind the appliance so the cable can be tucked away without strain. We set these positions with the kitchen layout so they are tidy once the units are in.
Have the appliance on site with its instructions, the housing unit or worktop cut-out ready, and clear access to the board. If the hob or oven trips once in use, our fault finding service can trace why. We work Monday to Friday, 7:30am to 5:30pm, across Oxfordshire and surrounding counties; see the areas we cover or call 01235 430442.
