Bathroom & Kitchen Extractor Fan Installation
Fans wired safely, switched sensibly and placed where they will actually clear steam and condensation.
Steam from showers, baths and cooking has to go somewhere. Without extraction it settles as condensation on cold walls and windows, leading to mould, peeling paint and swollen woodwork. A properly wired extractor fan is a small job that makes a big difference to a bathroom, en-suite, kitchen or utility room.
How a fan is wired
Most domestic extractor fans take their supply from the lighting circuit in the same room or close by. The supply passes through a fan isolator, a switch that breaks all the live conductors so the fan can be made completely dead for maintenance. Some fans are fed from a fused connection unit instead, with a small fuse protecting the fan. Which arrangement suits depends on the fan, the circuit and where switches can sensibly go.
Switching: light switch, timer or humidistat
The simplest fans run when the light is on. Most bathroom fans now include an overrun timer that keeps them going for a few minutes after the light goes off, clearing the last of the steam. A humidistat model senses moisture in the air and runs until it falls, which suits rooms like utility rooms and en-suites without windows. Some fans combine both, and some run continuously at low speed and boost when needed. We'll suggest the right type for how the room is used.
Bathroom zones in general terms
Bathrooms are divided into zones around the bath and shower, with stricter rules on equipment close to water. A fan inside or immediately above a shower enclosure must be suitable for that zone, which often means a specific water-resistance rating or a low-voltage fan powered through a transformer placed outside the zone. Isolators and switches stay outside the zones. We check the layout and the fan's specification before fitting.
Kitchen extraction
In kitchens, the main extraction is usually the cooker hood, which needs a fused supply in the right place behind or above the units. Wall or ceiling fans are used where there is no hood, or in a separate utility room. If you are fitting a new kitchen, we plan these supplies alongside the rest of the kitchen electrics.
Ducting and building work
A fan only works as well as its ducting. Short, straight runs with as few bends as possible move air best, and the duct should end at a proper outside vent rather than in a loft. Forming the hole through the wall or roof and running the duct is usually done by the bathroom fitter, kitchen fitter or builder as part of their work. We coordinate on position and timing so the cable is ready when the fan goes up.
Replacing an old or noisy fan
Old fans often become loud, slow or stop altogether. Swapping one for a quieter modern unit is a common smaller job. If the existing wiring has no isolator or the fan sits in the wrong place for the zones, we'll recommend putting that right at the same time.
Combining with other bathroom work
If you are also changing the shower, see our electric shower installation page, and for new downlights and mirror lights our lighting installation page. Doing the electrics in one visit is usually tidier and cheaper than several separate trips.
Certification
Work that adds to or alters a circuit is tested and recorded on a certificate. Work in bathrooms can fall under the notifiable categories in the Building Regulations for England, so we explain what paperwork you will receive when we quote.
Get a quote
Adtec Electrical Services Ltd is based at Lyford Business Centre near Wantage. Call 01235 430442, Monday to Friday, 7:30am to 5:30pm, or send a photo of the room and the existing fan through the form. See the areas we cover.